Ansa Butterfly Sleeve Dress - Named SS17 Playground Collection

The Ansa Butterfly Sleeve Dress was the second pattern I tested from the new Playground Collection by Named. This is a lovely design with and interesting front yoke and pleats to create soft shaping at the waist.

Ansa Butterfly Sleeve Dress - Named

The pattern also includes a top with the same yoke and sleeve design and a loose, flowing shape.

I made the dress from some very lightweight cotton that I think came from Potter Textiles. The dress isn't lined so this fabric is possibly the tiniest bit lightweight for the pattern. However, with the loose sleeves and gently fitted design, it's very comfortable and cool to wear in our hot weather. When making this I used 126cm of 140cm wide fabric (pattern states 135cm of 150cm wide).

I used navy bias binding to highlight the shaped seam above the bust and the neckline. 

The back closes with an invisible zip and fits really well thanks to the long darts.

The Ansa top has no zip and just pulls on over the head.

I chose white cotton Broderie Anglaise fabric and underlined all but the sleeves with white voile. I used white piping at the front and back yoke seams. For this I used 120cm of 140cm wide fabric (pattern states 135cm of 150cm wide).

I really like this top and have worn it quite a few times. It is perfect for looking a bit dressed up, but still casual and summery. I would like to make this from drapier fabric to see how it looks.

 I made no changes to the original patterns for the dress and top, other than adding piping to the back yoke seam of the top. I love both these patterns and they fit perfectly into my casual summer lifestyle.

Named Maisa Denim Jacket - the Playground Collection

Look at this. A denim jacket! I absolutely love this jacket and it has been the most exciting thing I've made for some time. It was so much fun planning, sewing and watching it come together.

The Maisa Denim Jacket is from the SS17 collection by Named, which was released yesterday. This collection has some lovely pieces and I will be blogging, in the next few days, about two other patterns from this collection that I also tested.

The sample jacket from the collection was made from recycled jeans, which I considered using for my jacket. However, I had some remnant pieces of this dark denim from Remida and I decided to use those in the end. It is a medium-light weight denim with no stretch and was a perfect choice for a comfortable jacket.

I have made many Named patterns before and completely trust their quality and sizing, so I decided to do some Sashiko stitching on the back panel before sewing up the jacket. I found a tutorial online and got to it.

I drew the grid on my fabric with a chalk wheel pen and sewed two stitches per square for durability, following the plan in the tutorial. It was very satisfying watching the pattern emerge. I was sewing this around Christmas during the summer school holidays, so took it with me to a waterfront cafe and stitched while the children played in the water.

Once the Sashiko was finished I sewed the rest of the jacket. I lined the back panel with some cotton chambray to hide the knots from the Sashiko. The instructions are great for this pattern and produce a very neat inside for this unlined jacket.

I used rust-coloured thread for the topstitching and added little red bar tacks at the opening of the sleeve vents. The buttons are jeans buttons from Spotlight that are hammered into place.

This jacket is completely comfortable with no pulling at the shoulders when I stretch forward (a problem I have with some jackets). I have already worn it many times since I made it as it goes with everything. The proportions all seem spot on to me and I just love everything about it.

In the spirit of hand sewing, I'm wearing the jacket with my indigo dyed Alabama Chanin style StyleArc Tammy dress.

Here are a few more pictures:

 

Thank you to Named for the opportunity to test this pattern. I love everything about it and, as always, their pattern testing procedure was professional and lots of fun.

Summer Solstice Set - Naughty Bobbin Patterns

Well this is exciting. My online sewing friend Savage Coco (yes, the designer of the Presto Popover top that took the sewing world by storm last year) has completely rebranded and revamped her website and shop. Coco and I have never met, but have exchanged many emails. She is hilarious and very talented. To celebrate the website launch, Coco has released a pattern combo for this brilliant little Summer Solstice Set, consisting of a skirt, top and bonus cap. Take note Aussie and NZ friends - we don't often get new pattern releases that suit our seasons. We can wear it first for a change!

The new company name is Naughty Bobbin Patterns (formerly Savage Coco Patterns) and you have to visit the website just to see the cool sewing cartoons on the homepage!

Anyway, this set. The skirt is a simple straight design with a smooth elastic waistband and the top is a tank style with a flattering, square neckline that dips lower at the back. The top has a built-in shelf bra and is sewn together in a clever way that creates a completely clean finish inside. Both items are made from knit fabrics. I used ponte for the skirt and cotton jersey for the top. I made a size M with no changes. The fit is spot on and I love that the top completely covers my bra straps from all angles.

But wait, there's more! This is the Coco Cap, which also forms part of the Summer Solstice Set. I am thrilled with this as it gives lovely shade and looks so much better than a normal cap. I made mine from denim scraps left over from the Refashioners 2016 Jeans challenge. I forgot to wear it in the other photos so I tried to take some selfies - not easy when you are trying to show off a hat, I kept trying to look at the camera.

The hat is a great fit and has a back elasticated section that can be adjusted to fit during construction. I have a large head, so I was happy to find that this was big enough. It is lined, but not difficult to make. The brim is stiffened with pellon interfacing. This is not easy to get in Australia. An alternative would be two or three layers of your stiffest interfacing or steal the plastic cover from your child's school exercise book.

I am over the moon with this set and highly recommend it. Everything is well thought out, well fitting, stylish and with clear instructions. The skirt is so comfy and quick to make, I'm going to have one for every day of the week. Congratulations to Naughty Bobbin Patterns!

Pilvi Coat Dress - Named Clothing Evolution Theory Collection

The Pilvi Coat Dress was the second pattern I tested from the Evolution Theory Collection by Named (see my Talvikki Sweater here).

The Pilvi Coat Dress by Named Patterns

I love that Named often produce patterns with a difference with clean lines and cool details.

The Pilvi is a double-breasted, fitted coat dress made from knit fabric. It is a really lovely pattern with princess seam detail, pockets and a belt with loops incorporated into the side seams. The style works equally well as a coat or a dress.

The back seams ensure a great fit.

The instructions recommend a medium-weight, knit fabric with 40% stretch. I used 2.5m of a bone-coloured ponte from Remida. The front overlapping sections are stabilised with knit interfacing. I unfortunately used interfacing with less than 40% stretch and have a bit of pulling around the bust as a result. Bummer. Check your interfacing before you iron it on!

The instructions are very clear and well illustrated and the pattern is well drafted, as is usual with Named patterns. The pattern would suit advanced beginners. One thing I love about Named patterns is that when I print them on A4 paper, there are no margins to cut off so you can get straight to the sticking-together stage. This is a huge time saver! I don't know whether this is also the case with US letter paper.

What can I say, another successful Named pattern. I love them all and I've been wearing this coat dress a lot since I made it.

 Named, you rock!

Named Evolution Theory Collection - Talvikki Sweater

In case you haven't heard, Named Clothing have just released their new collection. It is called Evolution theory and I think it might be their best yet. I am planning to work my way through most of the pieces! I was fortunate to have tested two of the new patterns and this one has already been worn a lot!

This is the Talvikki sweater. A stylish and simple design with interesting dart details at the front and back neckline, side splits and a high/low hemline. Just the right number and combination of features for a perfect design.

I made mine from lovely French terry fabric in grey marle from Potter Textiles. I am wearing it above with StyleArc Lola pants in the same fabric, but it works equally well with jeans (Named Jamie Jeans, below) and other combinations.

This is an easy garment to sew and the instructions are clear with helpful diagrams. I made a size 40 according to the size chart and the fit is loose and comfy.

You can see the darts that shape the neckline in the pictures above and below. Top Tip: use very stretchy knit interfacing on the neckline facing or it won't go over your head!

I love the gently curved, longer back.

 Actually, I love everything. This is so comfortable and cosy, I never want to take it off!

This one's a winner!